Rodarte ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2015-2016 New York
An urban and rock’n’roll attitude even grungy but above all sexy at Rodarte. The Mulleavy sisters prove yet again that all in question are reinterpretations and attitude. For next winter, the woman will be pairing her slim trousers with a jacket with squared shoulders or her leather mini skirt with triangular cuttings with a black blazer.
It was a leather and lace moment at the Rodarte show on Tuesday. With a healthy dose of sequins and feather embellishments thrown in for good measure as the sister designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy turned to the beauty of birds and their poetic migration patterns to inspire their romantic yet rock and roll creations.
Feathers were referenced in short skirts constructed from strips of leather sliced to finish off in points. Allusions to the spindly legs of exotic fowl could be gleaned from all the painted-on high-waisted leather pants with lace inserts running the length of the outer leg that appeared on the catwalk. While tiered bias cut gowns each crafted from slanting diagonal sections built of colorful plumes, embroidered flowers or sequined chiffon gave those garments a heightened sense of movement and suggested wings in motion.
These two Californians live in their very own fashion microcosm complete with blinkers when it comes to acknowledging whatever it is that everyone else is doing. Whatever Rodarte does is always thoroughly Rodarte, and at a time when many designers run the risk of blending into one bland hotpot, when something like this comes along, it zings with flavour.
Diaphanous slips were pieced together in texture clashes of crystal mesh, ostrich feathers, multi-coloured square “pixilated” sequins, beaded tassels and other crafty delight. These two might be doing entirely their own thing, but these dresses will strike a chord among diehard Saint Laurent fans too.